Fidget's Finds of The Week

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Thanks for looking and have a great weekend!

Fidget Loves Biba!

Hello. I am Agnes and lucky for you, you caught me on a good day. Fidget asked me to share some vintage tidbits on the computer in return for some smokes and a bottle of dry vermouth. I will begin with the fashion icon and legend that is Barbara Hulanicki.


Babs pioneered a fashion revolution in London with her Biba shop in the late 1960's when she was the first designer to target her designs entirely toward younger people with trendsetting collections, a glamorous storefront and a deliberately low price point.



In 1964, Barbara started selling her first ready to wear designs in London via mail order from fashion sections in various magazines. Her first significant success was a pink gingham dress that was advertised in the Daily Mirror around the same time that Brigitte Bardot wore a near exact replica as her wedding dress. It is said that over 4,000 orders came in by the next day. Soon after, she opened a shop named Biba on Arbington Road in London in September of the same year.



Barbara’s aesthetic was heavily influenced by Art Deco and Art Nouveau styles and she designed flattering clothing for more slender figures than was custom at the time. She described her customers as ‘postwar babies who had been deprived of nourishing protein in childhood and grew up into beautiful skinny people: a designer's dream. It didn’t take much for them to look outstanding.’ These women were mostly teenagers or twenty somethings, who simply wanted to wear clothing that was affordable and looked good on them.




The shop itself seemed like an exclusive club with its blaring music, celebrity sightings and rooftop garden but it was just as accessible for the common girl as it was for the budding socialite. The windows were always fantastically displayed and at Biba you would come across such extremes as metallics mixed with dusky colors, mini skirts alongside maxi coats, platforms lined up with Victorian boots, and movie actresses lined up with five and dime store employees. If I die tomorrow, I hope to end up at the Biba shop circa 1966. To be more specific, I want to be making Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithful wait in the dressing room line while I take my time contemplating which color feather boa would best match my new checkered three piece pants suit.




Here is an excerpt from an interview with Barbara Hulanicki in Vice Magazine from 2009:

Vice: It seems like you had such a clear vision with Biba. It was a very specific art-nouveau- and art-deco-inspired, old-Hollywood glamour look. I was wondering how that came about.
Barbara: First and foremost, the inspiration was the period in which we were living. There were absolutely no clothes for young people in England. I mean, in America there were wonderful things happening in the early 60s but in the UK we were all desperate, just desperate, for clothes. Another inspiration was old movies—mostly things with Garbo and American musicals.

Vice: The color palette was great. Everything was dark browns and purples and lots of black. It was very lush and boudoirish.
Barbara: I was designing in England, which is very dark and gloomy, and our color palette there is not as strong as it is in America. For instance, where I am now, in Miami, the sun soaks up color. So it was all to do with light, really.

Vice: I read that you were in art school and you started out as a fashion illustrator.
Barbara: I did fashion design at art school, but that seemed to take too long. I was desperate to get a job and get out of my home life and be independent. Illustration was often used in editorials back then—photography hadn’t caught on yet. It seemed the quickest way to get to be independent but still have something to do with fashion.

Vice: How did you go from illustrating to making and selling clothes?
Barbara: I was illustrating in a studio when I met my husband, Fitz, who was in advertising. He said, “You’ve got to go back to design. You’ve got to go freelance,” which I did and my career really rocketed. I was in all the big magazines—Women’s Wear Daily, Vogue, Harper’s, Queen magazine—and traveling a lot to France, doing shows there. That was amazing training. I kept seeing that there was absolutely nothing for the young. Paris was all for ladies who lunched.

Vice: It seems like everything you were doing—the clothes, the shop, the way you presented retail as an “experience”—was the complete opposite of what everyone else was doing at the time.
Barbara: Well, it was all the things I wanted myself. First of all, I had a loving husband who hated shopping. So I thought that a way to get the boys to stay was to get them a seat. Then they could watch the girls and it would work. Remember, there weren’t that many clubs in those days. People didn’t go and eat out. There weren’t that many concerts. Now you can hang out in all sorts of places, even Starbucks, but there used to be nowhere like that. The boutique, especially on a Saturday, became a big meeting place.

Vice: In the beginning, everything you made was limited run, which really created the idea of cult items that people just had to have.
Barbara: Retail is like fishing. You never know what’s going to sell big. We were cautious. We sold, and as we sold, we made more. Everything was practical, it wasn’t thought out in a marketing room or anything.

Vice: It’s so different now.
Barbara: Yes. Everything is marketed for us and then they put money into it. We were doing it the other way around.

Vice: It must have been exciting to do it that way.
Barbara: Tremendously. You’ve no idea. You never knew when you were going to catch the big one. In retail, it’s this moment that counts, not tomorrow, not the next day, not yesterday. You have to keep making money. Otherwise you die.

Vice: I was reading about the catalogues that you produced. In the 50s and 60s, catalogues were thick books of drawings. You were the first to do a catalogue with photos that looked like magazine editorials.
Barbara: I was madly in love with photography and photographers and I said, “Wow, now is the chance to use some of these incredible people.” I mean, can you imagine, we had Helmut Newton doing it! He was big then, but not that big. I went through a friend of mine who was working at the Observer and I said, “Please ask him!” She said, “Of course he will, he would love to.”

Vice: Never know until you ask, I guess.
Barbara: Absolutely.

Vice: You had so many different ideas, and many of them you actually brought to fruition. There was a men’s line, a children’s line, shoes, jewelry, grocery items, coffee, tea, cat food, dog food—even Biba baked beans! I’ve also read about a Biba car that was being planned.
Barbara: That never happened, but we were absolutely planning it.

Vice: You came out with a black lipstick, right?
Barbara: Yes.

Vice: You were so ahead of the times! Even nowadays, if somebody does something that bold, people freak out. As recently as last year, YSL put black lipstick on their models and people were like, “Ooh, it’s so weird.” I can’t imagine what people thought about something like that in the 60s.
Barbara: Well, you see, we were starting from zero because lipstick then was coral. That was it. So we had a completely blank canvas. That new generation was so hungry for anything new. It was fantastic. Our first lipstick was chocolate brown and it sold out in two seconds!

Vice: Did you wear the lipstick as well?
Barbara: Oh yeah.

Vice: It sounds like you were creating an army of young girls that were all tuned into your look.
Barbara: Yes, because I was tuned into them. I mean, it’s important that you’re tuned into your public. The English public is incredibly open and eccentric, totally open to new ideas. They’re not frightened of being laughed at.

Vice: Let’s jump ahead to when you moved into the seven-story “Big Biba” store. Not only was it a full-service department store, it was, again, a place to hang out. You had film stars, artists, and rock stars like the Rolling Stones and David Bowie coming in. Brigitte Bardot would be there. It just struck me that nowadays a lot of designers court celebrities so they can pack the front row of their shows with them and get them to wear their clothes.
Barbara: Right, they pay them.

Vice: Yeah. But it seems like people just naturally came to hang out at the Biba store because it was a cool place to be.
Barbara: I’ll tell you what, we had fabulous-looking girls in the shop and that was enough to bring those boys in. Even when you get a girl that isn’t so fabulous, she becomes fabulous because she’s with the others and she can try things on and look nice. So, they bloom, they bloom. Birds of a feather.

Here are some "Bibaesque" pieces that Fidget currently has for sale in her shop:


Stamped Gold with Turquoise Pendant Necklace

Black and Gold Pisces Pendant Necklace and Oversized Geometric Silver and Red Pendant Necklace

Perfect Sparkly Gold Clutch

Barbara Hulanicki continues to push the boundaries with her current interior and fashion designs. In addition, there is a “Biba” musical in the works, an amazing documentary called “Beyond Biba” came out in 2009 and Biba is back - The House of Fraser relaunched the Biba brand in 2010. Below are photos from the Biba Spring/Summer 2011 Collection and a trailer for "Beyond Biba".



Biba Spring Summer 2011 Collection


Beyond Biba Trailer

That does it for now. So scram and check back soon for more fashion highlights from decades past.

Yours truly, Agnes.

NicoleLebreux Early Spring 2011 Collection

I'm sure that you all enjoyed the fantastically fun behind the scenes video that Caitlin and Jeff made of our recent Spring 2011 photo shoot, and now I'm here to share with you the photos! Kaitlin Coleman was the photographer and did an excellent job executing the bright colors on gray background shoot idea that I had. To keep with the all are loved and welcome fidget finds aesthetic I chose to use real women as my models. Granted they are all my close friends, many of whom I have know since childhood, but they all embrace the positive attitude and enjoying life feel that I want my clothing to have. Everyone did their own hair and makeup and the photos were not touched up at all to hide blemishes or to make the girls appear thinner because all shapes and sizes are loved here and all the girls are absolutely stunning JUST THE WAY THEY ARE!! Here are a few of my favorite photos but please be sure to check out my new website where you'll see many more (warning: it is still very much under construction!) I will begin to list items in my etsy shop in the next week and of course I will keep you updated on local markets where you can purchase items in person. So exciting!!







A big thank you to Kait for the photos, my intern/partner in fashion Melanie who thankfully took the lead with styling for the shoot, and Chantal for pitching in and doing a lot of sewing in the days leading up to it. And of course my models and muses, Renee, Caitlin, Julie, Lily, Maya, Andi, and Mae.

Feature in The Bay Magazine! (the unedited edition)

Make sure you check out the April edition of The Bay Magazine to see a profile piece about FidgetFinds and the debut of my new collection of original apparel labeled under my name, Nicole Lebreux. It's just so very exciting to see your picture in the paper! Here is the unedited version of the interview that I wrote for the paper:

-Tells us about your vintage clothing online store and blog.
Fidget Finds started in the fall of 2007 and has taken on many forms including a brick and mortar in Newport and is currently an online shop on etsy.com. My work is a collection of interesting, unique, and wearable vintage items that embody having fun, enjoying every moment, and bright sunny days. The blog is an outlet for me to share current inspirations, photography, and a way keep my customers up to date with Fidget happenings.

- When and how did you become interested in vintage clothing?
My love of vintage walks hand in hand with my taste for thrift shopping and finding lost treasures. I started scouring the racks at the local church thrift when I was in elementary school to add to my collection of “dress-up clothing” for various plays and dance recitals in my living room. My interest became more developed in high school with my distaste for mass produced clothing and in looking like everyone else. Vintage, thrift, and my own hand made creations enabled me to express myself and embrace being unique.

- What inspired you to start your own clothing business?
I don’t ever remember a time when I didn’t want to be an entrepreneur or design clothing. “Fidget” was actually the name of a tee shirt collection that I designed in sixth grade. My mom used to make my sister and I outfits for special occasions, making the sewing machine available for me to take full advantage of. I also took lots of sewing and art classes in high school and attended F.I.T. to gain a degree in fashion design. After working the industry in NYC for a while I decided that I had too many qualms with traditional clothing manufacturing and I also needed to be closer to nature. I moved back to RI and it was a natural progression from there.

- We heard you are finally starting your own line! Can you tell us what is in store?
I am so excited about the collection of original apparel I am working on under an eponymous label! It is a collection of about 20 different styles ranging from high waisted maxi skirts, knit rompers, and boxy crop tops. I make all of my pieces out of brightly colored and printed recycled fabrics, mostly vintage but also including mill surplus. I will be selling my garments on etsy.com as well as in local markets and trunk shows over the summer. My designs are certainly vintage inspired but more in the sense that they’re classic and timeless.

- Who is your favorite designer?
I actually don’t have one, although I fully respect the collection of ideas that other contemporary designers show and am frequently inspired by them. I have always favored looks and conceptions over labels and trends. If you want to go back and speak to the creators of modern women’s wear then the list is long and includes Claire McCardell for her contributions toward comfort, function and fit, Elsa Schiaparelli for her smart Surrealist aesthetic, and Madeleine Vionnet for shaping clothing to a woman’s body.

- What would you tell someone who has never shopped at a vintage store?
First of all, don’t be scared! I always suggest to vintage newcomers just to pick one or two pieces of clothing or jewelry that catch their eye and to work those pieces into their existing wardrobe. Inevitably this leads to loads of compliments on the item and the want for more unique articles with a story in their closet. Collections can grow pretty quickly from there!

- What is considered a “good find” when shopping for vintage clothes?
Something that speaks to you, something that makes you gasp when you first see or touch it, something that makes you happy and proud to wear. Add a good price and a great fit and you’ve got yourself your new favorite wearable item.

Photograph by Amy Amerantes

New on Etsy and Ski Weekend!

In approximately three hours myself and three of my besties (Brian included of course) are piling in the car and heading up to Maine for a long ski weekend!! I am beyond excited as it's been years since I've headed that far north and months and months since I haven't worked for three days straight. We're going skiing, playing games, snuggling by the fire, and enjoying the crisp cold mountain air. I haven't skied since college and Brian's only been twice, so that aspect of the trip should be interesting. Hopefully sking is like riding a bike; I won't forget how. In the meantime, I am making a rush to get a bunch of awesome belts and necklaces on etsy to hopefully sell over the weekend (lift tickets are $80 what?!) Here are some closeups as a little tease. Head over the etsy shop for more details on these beauties. Hope you all have a great weekend too!

Fidget Finds Etsy Faves of the Week

Lots of new goodies on etsy! Click here.